Monday, 24 May 2021

Good times, good times

TIME: 2021/05/25 01:57
LATITUDE: 06-14.36S
LONGITUDE: 150-32.85W
COURSE: 000T
SPEED: 4.0

I am trying to figure out where to start with this update. Do I start with the new broken thing or with the squalls that have been running us over since 4:30 this morning?! Which piece of good news do I start with?! Such a dilemma. If D wrote this update, all you would get is "We are stopping in Hawaii where we will live as illegal aliens, come visit us when you can!" But luckily for you I am writing this update and as most people know I am not brief in my storytelling.

Let me take you back to a couple of days before we left Tahiti. D was mucking about with the engines and noticed that the starboard engine was charging at too high of a voltage...which I am told is not ideal. Anyway, the end result was the alternator was busted and quite fortuitously we had a spare on board. Switched out...life is good again. Now let's go to yesterday as the sun was setting. As I have previously mentioned we apparently are not sailing in the correct direction to suit our solar panels in keeping our batteries charged so D turned on the port engine for a bit of juice for the batteries. What's that you say?! It is not charging??? Seriously, what are the chances that in a matter of a week, both alternators call it quits!? I know, all our monohull sailor friends are chuckling "Hahaha, double the expense and work those catamarans!". Anyway, we don't actually know for sure that the alternator has packed it in because it was getting dark when the problem was discovered and then as I have alluded to the weather and seas are making it impossible for D to get into the engine to troubleshoot. So here is hoping we get good news from our weather forecasting friends that we are in for some pleasant days of sailing in the next day or two.

We started out last night with two reefs in the main and a full head sail. But by 4:30am D is at the mast in 30+ knots of wind trying to fight the third reef in while I attempted to keep the boat downwind in constantly shifting wind direction. Needless to say, I managed to only have one accidental gybe. And basically neither D nor I have slept a minute since then. I believe that lovely Southern Ocean swell as reached us and it seems to be having a dance fight with the prevailing swell, which is making for a fun day on Maple. It is one of those days where you sit your butt down and do not think of moving unless you want to get tossed across the boat with a sudden shift of Maple up or down a 3 meter wave in conflicting directions. I reflect on how I always took pride that I am not a camping girl. Who wants to sleep on the ground with the stench of campfire permeating everything?! Well I must say right now at this point in time, what I wouldn't give to have a stable ground to sleep on, on an uncomfortable air mattress trying to will my bladder that I don't have to get out of the warm sleeping bag to stagger to the nearest outhouse, which never seems to be near our campsite. That sounds like a dream experience for me right now. As I write this, the sun is finally shining and there are presently no squalls on the horizon, I will take that while it lasts. If we can just get these slamming waves to stop then it will be perfect.

Funny enough though after all that reading, D's brief summary above has a bit of truth in it. We are now seriously considering a brief stop in Hawaii. Depending on what we determine is wrong with the port engine, we now have a list of items that could use some fixing. To be in an anchorage to attend to these issues would be likely the most prudent choice for us. So I will continue to keep you updated. Mark and Isabel, I will be in touch as my resident Hawaiian experts. I am sure you would love nothing more than to source some Yanmar parts for us, yes?! Isabel makes it sound like shopping is quite good there in Honolulu!! ;)

To end on a fun note, Iris lost a tooth last night at dinner. At this point in time, I think we only have Croatian change on board, so the tooth fairy will have to pay a visit once we have some more useful currency for our future points of landfall.

Sunday, 23 May 2021

500 miles down

TIME: 2021/05/24 02:59
LATITUDE: 08-02.44S
LONGITUDE: 150-30.77W
COURSE: 348T
SPEED: 4.0

The scenery does not change much out here, except yesterday when we passed an atoll by a couple of miles. So crazy to see nothing but ocean and sky for days then suddenly there are palm trees just above the waves. We believe Kariorina is an uninhabited island, part of the Line Island chain, we opted not to stop and explore.

We are just carrying along, not much to report. The weather has been cooperating for the most part, sailing along beautifully with lumpy seas. No thunderstorms materialized so that was a positive. Yesterday and today the waves are a little less organized. We are anticipating a building of wave height as a result of a storm in the Southern Ocean. As one of my friends in NZ reported they saw upwards of 10 meter waves, thankfully they are well protected in harbour. Well I guess those ocean swells are working their way north thousands of miles to come greet us, but gratefully will be much reduced by the time they reach us.

I could give a recap of stuff that has broken on the boat, that is always a fun update. We have had an ongoing saga with our port side water tank. It first started leaking back in 2019. D managed to plastic weld it successfully and that repair lasted for a year. However, since then the repair has not held and D has pulled out the nearly 400L tank to repair it again and again. In fact the last time he repaired it was two days before we left. I had suggested, forget it, we still have another nearly 400L tank and a smaller 250L one. Plus a functioning watermaker. But no, D could not let the tank win. He pulled off all the previous repairs and basically started over. The good news, the repair is still holding!!! The bad news...we discovered this morning that our starboard water tank is empty!!! There is no way we have gone through 400L of water in four days. We had noticed a similar crack at the bottom of the starboard tank but chose not to fix it as it was not showing signs of leaking and it is not as easy to remove as the 250L tank would have be removed first to get the larger tank out. Well needless to say, I am very grateful that D persisted in trying to repair the port side tank. Here is hoping the repair continues to hold. We have changed our water usage by using a bucket of salt water to rinse all dishes prior to a quick fresh water wash. We are already very light water users, no showers or laundry, just for drinking, cooking and dishes. So I don't anticipate this being an issue for us. I figure we aren't truly sailing if stuff is not breaking.

Thank you so much for all of your emails filled with news!! Always exciting to hear what people are up to while our days are on the mundane side. Around midnight we hit the 500 miles traveled mark. Before we left, the girls put together goodie bags of treats to celebrate each 500 miles sailed so this morning they got to break into the first bag. Here is hoping we continue to progress at a similar pace to the next 500 miles. Maple and her crew are all happy and doing well. Definitely have our sea legs now. Iris has started her watches now too and Ella has started to knit a shawl since she finished up her blanket just before we left Tahiti.

If I don't send out a group email, you can always check here https://followingsea.net/blog/Maple to see our track. Assuming we can get the radio to connect, we will always send a daily update to this site so the map can be updated to show our progress for anyone who may be interested.

Friday, 21 May 2021

Day three perfection

TIME: 2021/05/22 03:17
LATITUDE: 11-46.41S
LONGITUDE: 150-23.53W
COURSE: 006T
SPEED: 4.9

Today was an incredible sailing day. The only way it could have been more perfect is if we were downwind, but for an upwind sail, today was perfect. We finally shook out a couple of reefs in the main and made some better progress today. We have gentle seas on the beam which is making for a comfortable sail for us. The wind is closer hauled than we would prefer, resulting in us sailing more NW than we want. However, it will all work out in the end when we eventually reach the westerly winds to take us towards Alaska. And the sun didn't stop shining today. Unfortunately our sailing angle is not conducive for good charging with the solar panels. The little tow generator can only do so much so sadly we are running one engine in neutral on low RPMs on occasion to keep the batteries happy.

I would be quite thrilled if every day was as good as this one, but I know that is not the reality for us. We have friends who are generously sending us their takes on the forecast, which shows some approaching thunderstorm activity and a big southerly swell. So we will take it as it comes. I know it is still early in the passage but we are getting into a rhythm. Ella has started to pick up an afternoon watch and she even started up her evening yoga/plank routine again after only missing one day with the super sloppy conditions. It is too bad I don't have her motivation to join her. My win is I have graduated from the canned chili dinner and pulled off some decent meals so far.

Maple and her crew are all doing well!! Thank you again for those who have emailed. I will try to respond to individual emails soon.

Thursday, 20 May 2021

A kinder second day

TIME: 2021/05/21 03:23
LATITUDE: 13-32.64S
LONGITUDE: 150-09.40W
COURSE: 006T
SPEED: 4.2



I loved hearing from so many of you, thank you for sending all your good wishes. I love hearing news from you and what you are all up to. Thank you! I would love to send individual replies to everyone but for now, I am sticking with the less personal group email.

Like so many of you predicted, day two was much kinder. The morning started off very wet. D's favourite line whenever there is a squall on the horizon is "It is going to miss us!". Well the squall this morning did not miss us and on top of that timed itself perfectly for D's nap. However, I fully appreciated as I sat at the helm sopping wet in just shorts and a windbreaker that I better enjoy this while it lasts. I imagine in a couple thousand miles when a squall is approaching, regardless of D's hopeful predictions, I will need to be racing to get my foul weather gear on to avoid hypothermia. After the slowest moving squall ever eventually past, the sun came out, the seas calmed and the wind came to a more respectable level. We have just enjoyed the more settled conditions that we haven't even bothered to shake a reef or two out of the main. Clearly you can tell neither of us are racers at heart and so we have just bobbed along at 4 knots and enjoyed the day.

To answer some of you who asked whether we were fishing yet, the answer is no. Again just further confirming we are the world's laziest cruisers. As Iris said as we set out on this passage, "I wish Jeff was with us. He would catch us some fish in no time." Jeff and Sandra are cruiser friends who joined us on the Atlantic crossing. And what can I say, they made that crossing the amazing passage it was with Jeff polishing stainless and reeling in the fish, while Sandra was the far better cook than me and patiently sat with Iris teaching her to read and with Ella teaching her to knit. I am sure one of these days, we will eventually cast out a lure but for now we are still just trying to get into a routine. After all we have plenty of time for fishing between now and arrival. What I am craving for most is the best fish on the planet...the Pacific Salmon!!! However, I suppose I could suffer through another tuna or mahi until we get further north.

We still are able to reach a rock solid shore station out of NZ which means we have excellent download speeds...not taking 5G or anything but still a respectable speed for an old school radio, so please keep those replies coming!! Those who already replied were all so awesome in starting a new email, thank you so much!!!

Wednesday, 19 May 2021

Are we there yet?

Current Position at 0448 UTC
15 11.513S
149 51.792w

French Polynesia did not let us leave quietly. The first 24 hours have been let's say...brisk. We left Tahiti after fueling up at 3:30pm local time yesterday (Tuesday, May 18). We motored in gentle conditions after leaving the south pass while we remained in Tahiti's wind shadow. But I tell you, once we left that wind shadow, all gentleness ceased. We immediately had 20 to 25 knots of wind and upwards of 2 meter seas. It was not pretty and has continued to be unpleasant since then. It did not take long for Maple and her crew to be thoroughly encrusted in salt.

Darkness seemed to fall quickly and I had no inclination to cook in such horrendous conditions. So canned chili it was for our first dinner on what I anticipate will feel like the never-ending passage north. I will try to redeem myself for dinner tonight as I slowly get my sea legs.

Overnight, not much sleep was had by D and I. We did not stick to our typical watch schedule at all as the winds started to peak at 40 knots. With 3 reefs in the main and a heavily reefed head sail, the boat speed was reaching nearly 8 knots with waves crashing on our starboard beam. We basically spent the night picking up one fallen item after another from books to produce to ceiling fans to a computer with now a freshly broken screen. The fun just didn't want to end there. The highlight was when a bird crash landed into our cockpit. I am not kidding, D at the helm was startled by a loud thud behind him as a completely disoriented boobie wandered around in circles, squawking not understanding at all what just happened to it. I had to rush to close the sliding door as he started to stumble towards the open door. It took him a long time to get oriented. He eventually shook off the stars that had clearly been circling his head and eventually took flight again leaving behind his squid dinner which I assume he had caught behind Maple when he collided with us.

I try not to get too demoralized by these conditions when I think about the thousands of miles we have left to cover before we can gratefully set the anchor once again. The crew are all doing well and Maple is doing what she does best, dancing over the waves and keeping us all safe to our next, very distant destination.

REMINDER: If you email us back, please please please do not just hit reply!! We download at a snail's pace so please remove all unnecessary text such as my original email. Keep emails relatively brief please and do not send any pictures or attachments.

Tuesday, 4 May 2021

A bit of a test

Well our time here in French Polynesia is sadly nearing an end. It is hard to believe we have spent two years floating in this South Pacific paradise. I remember when D and I had a two week vacation here in 2012 on Moorea and Bora, which set this whole crazy plan in motion. Now we have been so fortunate to explore 18 islands and atolls in three of the five archipelagoes. We still barely scraped the surface of what this incredible country has to offer.

Anyway, I digress. The purpose of this email is to test whether this posts on our blog (https://svmaple.blogspot.com/), Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/SailingMaple) and Following Sea track (https://followingsea.net/blog/Maple). Also, this is your opportunity to tell me to take you off our email list. If you would prefer to not receive these emails or want us to use a different address, please just let me know.

In two weeks time, we will be setting off for an epic non-stop passage from Tahiti to Alaska. We anticipate it taking us upwards of 5 to 6 weeks to sail the 4500 miles of the Pacific Ocean. Will it always be the most comfortable of rides? Mmmm, probably not. But it is going to transport us from palm trees, blue lagoons and sandy beaches to high mountain peaks, glaciers and grizzly bears. This is what motivates us to take on this adventure. And of course number one, this passage will bring us a lot closer to family and friends back in BC.

The only request I need to make is if you do want to send us an email and to be clear...I love receiving emails while on passage, please always start a new email rather than hitting reply and keep the messages text based only. Only those who receive this message via email will be able to email us in return, so if you read this on one of our blogs and want to be added to our email list, please just send me a message while we still have internet.

So here is hoping this test run actually works! Thank you for being my guinea pigs!

Friday, 5 March 2021

Just one small boat project...right?!

 One simple project is never just one simple project...




An oil change, a thorough engine room clean, followed by a quick replacement of some rudder bits.  Easy peasy, done in just an hour or two.  Might even have time to do the second engine and rudder, yes?!


Hahaha...you would think after nearly 6 years living on a boat, we would know better.  After all D’s favourite saying is “everything is broken on a boat, we just don’t know it yet”.


We are pros at dropping the rudders having done it a number of times already both in and out of the water.  This is always one’s downfall...overly confident...because this time could we get the rudder to budge?!  Nope.  Hitting it with a mallet got us nowhere.  D trying to pull it down from under water.  Nope.  More hitting it with a mallet....finally it broke free and dropped out.  


What was the problem?!  The smallest amount of growth on the rudder post between the two rudder bearings.  Gah!?  How could such tiny sea creatures cause us hours of frustration?


Okay, beauty, scrape off the growth, replace rudder parts that started this whole mess and reinstalled.  Job well done...


But of course this is not the end to the story.  Mucking with the rudder means, water comes into the engine room and the now newly cleaned engine room is no longer clean and dry.  So just a quick clean, empty out the bilge and then done!  Yes?!  NO!!


Of course not...suddenly the bilge pump that worked just mere hours earlier with the first clean is not working.  Right.  


This is probably a good time to mention that when I say engine “room”, it is a bit misleading.  It is an area where the engine takes up the vast majority of the space with perhaps a foot of clearance around the perimeter of the engine.  This means trying to access anything on the bottom of this said engine “room”, involves D straddling the engine and basically lying on the engine with his head and shoulders upside down.


And of course any appropriately located bilge pump is in the deepest, darkest recesses possible.  D manages to remove the pump.  From my perspective, I swear he only waved the screwdriver over it and voila like the magician he is, we have a functioning bilge pump again.  Whew!  That is one spare we don’t have and to buy any spares here in French Polynesia basically requires the need to mortgage the boat. 


And for today?!  The second engine oil change and rudder will have to wait for the pain of yesterday to fade.  But not to worry, D did have to fix the outboard engine when it sputtered and died on the girls and I, so he did not get the day off of fixing broken stuff.